I set off again at 6am. I didn’t have breakfast in Thokla, because I wanted to stop at Lobuche for a short break and thought of having breakfast there. Lobuche is at 4920m. I arrived there after 2 hours of trekking and didn’t feel good. I had a headache, felt tired and my stomach was upset. I still forced myself to eat breakfast, because I wanted to keep on trekking to Gorak Shep, at 5164m. I had a nice breakfast: Tibethan bread with honey! Really enjoyed it. I stayed there 1 hour and continued to Gorak Shep. It turned out to be a big mistake!
The trekking was much longer than I thought, also probably partly caused of feeling really tired. I was just shuffling my feet along. Every step felt heavy. I could feel every kilo of my backpack more… Luckily, halfway the trekking I met a Moldovan guy, Andre. He was staying Gorak Shep, but felt bad too, and was on his way to Lobuche to recuperate. When you have AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), the only thing you can do is go back down, let your body get used to the altitude and try to climb up again. We talked for a while and he said he was feeling better and wanted to climb up together with me again.
It was meant I would meet him, because talking to him, made me feel better as well. We talked all the way. He was a very interesting guy: he lives in Norway and is a guide for the Northern Light.
When I finally arrived in Gorak Shep, 3 hours later, I felt bad again and just collapsed on my bed. I was so tired that I thought I would never be able to move again. I rested for 3 hours and went downstairs. I drank some soup and bought some cookies of which I ate a few in my room while lying down and reading my book. I really didn’t feel well.
The whole night I felt uncomfortable in my back, I had a major headache and I was vomiting bile. That was definitely not good! In the morning, I forced myself to get up with, what felt, the last strength I had and went downstairs to get a mint tea. I thought this would help with my stomach.
I really didn’t know what to do: in this state, I couldn’t possibly trek any further, but I had to go to Base Camp, because Eric would come back in a couple of days. I didn’t have time to go back down and climb back up again.
When I was in the dining room, trying to ease my stomach with tea, Joe walked in, a Canadian I met briefly in Thokla. I told him about my condition and he told me he had mountain sickness pills, which he didn’t have to use. He gave me 8 pills, enough for 4 days. I immediately took 1 and went back to my room to rest. A true miracle happened! After 1 hour, I felt much better and felt something like hunger again. Amazing!